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The guys behind Soho noodle favourite Koya have launched a cheap-and-cheerful, stripped-back mini version of their big hitter in the premises next
door (formerly occupied by Mooli). Given the lack of space, the all-day Koya Bar can only accommodate around 25 hungry slurpers, with stools allowing everyone to watch the action in the tiny open
kitchen behind the blond-wood counter. Fans of the big place will recognise favourites such as udon with mushrooms and walnut miso, but there are some novel new ideas too. One real treat is the
offer of a genuine Japanese breakfast – anything from traditional grilled fish with miso soup, rice and pickles to a ‘full English’ comprising a soupy broth topped with fried egg, bacon and
(shiitake) mushrooms. For real comfort, however, order a bowl of rice porridge with various savoury additions.
It’s always sad when a restaurant closes down (perhaps not the case for Bo London), but it’s even more of a shame when it’s as much loved as Koya on Frith Street. Next door, however, is its sister, Koya Bar, which ain’t going anywhere and I finally got round to popping in for lunch.We arrived at 11:50, which was the cross over between the breakfast and lunch menu. We perched on low stools at the long bar overlooking the kitchen; it was all rather pleasant. The atmosphere was serene – it almost made me want to have a nap...
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