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KETTNER'S CLOSED PERMANENTLY IN JANUARY 2016
“I love all the history and the fantastic atmosphere” chimed one fan who was bowled over by velvet banquettes, crystal chandeliers and mosaic floors of this glamorously refurbished Soho “treasure”. The mood is convincingly special and the brasserie generally delivers satisfying food backed by welcoming, helpful service. Pre-theatre deals are always a popular shout, while the carte promises easy comfort in the shape of lobster bisque with lobster ravioli or baked goats’ cheese with beetroot marmalade followed by Toulouse sausages and mash, harissa-glazed saddle of lamb with crispy polenta or fishcakes with pea purée and brown shrimp butter – not forgetting high-calorie treats from the vast pudding menu. The whole package also embraces a dedicated Champagne Bar, breakfast, afternoon tea, Sunday lunch with a live pianist and “some of the best private dining rooms in London”.
After sixteen days in Asia we came back craving something other than dim sum, noodles and sushi so went for dinner at one of my favourite restaurants, Kettner's. The Soho institution is housed in four Grade II listed Georgian townhouses and originally opened in 1867 by Napoleon III's chef Auguste Kettner, attracting celebrated regulars like King Edward VII, Oscar Wilde, Agathe Christie and Bing Crosby over the years...
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It’s always nice to welcome an old friend down to London for a long overdue catch-up. When I say old by the way, I’d like to clarify that I have known Elaine a long time, not that she is old in any way – she’s more active, in better shape and packs more into her life than I do (and I thought my London lifestyle was pretty hectic!) Back in the day, when I was young and impressionable, she was my boss. My first real boss, in fact, so I am very grateful that we have managed to stay in touch over the years.
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