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Family-run Kaosarn has been a hit on Brixton Market thanks to its lively canteen vibe, punchy “home-cooked” Thai food and knockdown prices, but it’s gone slightly upmarket for this second outlet in Battersea. The “beautifully lit” premises are more spacious than before, with a “lovely host” and some new dishes on the menu (look for the deep-fried whole sea bass with spicy green mango salad and ground peanuts). Otherwise, all the favourites are here – from satays, crispy soft-shell crab and tom yum soup to green curries, stir-fried beef with chilli and basil (topped with a fried egg) or Bangkok-style kuay tiew noodles in soup. Like the Brixton original, this branch is BYOB – a policy that gets a huge thumbs-up and adds to the terrific value of it all. Despite “borderline terrible service”, one local insists she’ll be “going back regularly forever”.
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