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Originally a textile factory and more recently Dalston’s Arcola Theatre, this all-day venture comes courtesy of the eponymous Jones family – one-time hoteliers in Wales (although son Andy earned
his stripes running a pub on Broadway Market). Inside, it’s a clever hotchpotch involving everything from commercial maritime salvage and Scandinavian furniture to a classic Italian deli counter.
Breakfast, brunch and daytime snacks keep the locals satisfied, while the full menu taps into the current vogue for revivalist British flavours: think whisky-cured salmon with soda bread and sorrel
mayo; pressed pork belly with spiced apple chutney and bone marrow jus; or roast cod and Shetland mussels with lemon buttermilk and spinach. There are also detours for wild mushroom fricassee with
salt polenta, before the kitchen brings it all back home with Eton mess. London-brewed ales and hand-picked wines top the drinks list.
Tucked away in a side street in Dalston stumbling distance from my house, I was overjoyed when I read that they were looking for the ‘discerning Dalston diner’. I’m not a hipster I just want decent food, cocktails and space and don’t mind paying for it. Formerly in the old Arcola theatre building; now a contemporary warehouse with an open kitchen and spacious tables, it felt a step up from the Dalston competition. It was a grown up restaurant in a sea of cheap eateries. The menu is modern European with lots of fish dishes but also dishes from the grill...
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