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THIS RESTAURANT WILL CLOSE 23 MARCH
Despite an overload of ostentation appropriate to Britain’s most expensive hotel, the Italian cooking on offer at Il Ristorante could hardly be more down-to-earth. Tick a box – dim-sum style – for
bite-sized slivers of blood-red bresaola or sea-bass crudo with tapenade; otherwise, head straight for, say, stuffed vegetables on aubergine caviar followed by breaded veal with lemon and caper
butter. Authenticity seems paramount, but it may come with an unexpected flourish: artisan pasta is dressed with ‘tomato variations’ or pesto genovese and served tableside from gleaming silver
saucepans, for example. Prices chime with the surroundings rather than the food, and bills can border on the obscene – still, the towering steel staircase, abrasive lighting, surprisingly lively
atmosphere and obsequious but friendly service are enough to lure in Knightsbridge’s money-no-object crowd. The wine list focuses on premium Italy, while acknowledging France’s more eye-wateringly
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Il Ristorante at The Bulgari Hotel
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