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The folk at Mark Hix’s vibrant Smithfield pitch are justifiably proud of their British meat, and think nothing of hauling a board of raw cuts to your table – all the better to explain the provenance of a Glenarm Estate rib-eye or Boccadon Farm veal chop, for example. Order a well-balanced, if pricey, cocktail (the Rhubarb Collins is a winner) while you choose from reinvented British classics such as “faultless” potted shrimps or Moyallon spring lamb with cockles and flowering leeks. Our hanger steak with baked bone marrow was cooked to medium-rare perfection, and roasted John Dory was done exactly right. Seasonal and foraged ingredients pepper the menu (crab with asparagus and pennywort salad, say) and oysters always feature – perfect with a pint of aptly named Hix Oyster Ale. Attentive, chummy service generally keeps the regulars loyal.   

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Mark Hix

Chef, restaurateur and contemporary-art lover Mark Hix was a champion of great British ingredients long before it became fashionable. He spent the best part of two decades as chef-director of Caprice Holdings before opening his first solo restaurant Hix Oyster & Chop House in Farringdon in 2008. His rapidly expanding empire currently numbers eight eateries, including Hix Mayfair, Hix Oyster & Fish House in Lyme Regis and his chicken and steak concept Tramshed.

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