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Michael Caines’ secluded country house hotel continues to enchant visitors with its disarmingly serene outlook and ever-so-English sense of decorum. This dreamy woodland oasis – with a stream
meandering through the front garden – is a crowd magnet, as is the cooking of the two-Michelin-starred chef and his brigade. To start, Brixham scallops
might be paired with celeriac and truffle
purée and a soy and truffle vinaigrette, while langoustine cannelloni appears with braised fennel, sauce vierge and shellfish sauce. Game always gets a good outing in season (perhaps Waddeton
pheasant with cumin and pumpkin purée), while Dartmoor lamb might appear with boulangère potato, fennel purée and a tapenade jus. Unwavering consistency and highly skilled execution are also the
hallmarks of desserts such as the trio of chocolate (parfait, mousse and ice cream). Happily the kitchen’s dazzling expertise is matched by an equally professional front-of-house team, and a
blockbuster wine list is there to provide the perfect liquid asset.
After a rather gastro-tastic holiday in Cornwall where we sampled wondrous food at the likes of The Seafood Restaurant, Nathan Outlaw at Rock, Paul Ainsworth at No.6 and Driftwood, we couldn’t help but take a minor detour on the way home and stop off for lunch at two Michelin starred Gidleigh Park.The drive from Padstow along Dartmoor was simply breathtaking. ..
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