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It’s quite impressive that this French outfit has managed to shoehorn a Parisian brasserie, complete with olde-worlde atmosphere, into one of the grand, soulless riverside developments. The sofas are ‘ideal for lazy weekend breakfasts’, while the more formal restaurant up the stairs serves hunger-quenching dishes in beaten-up Le Creuset cookware. Nibble on good bread & rillettes before moving on to moules marinière or snails in butter. Follow with good steaks accompanied by predictable sauces, or French-style roast chicken, washed down with a pichet of red (or something rather finer from the decent list), & you’ll have a great time. You should stick to the meat main courses, mind – though there’s fish on the menu, it’s frankly not a strong point, & vegetarians hardly get a look in.

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