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Alexis Gauthier's tranquil Regency townhouse continues to pay homage to the traditions of haute cuisine, silver cloches and all, so simply ring the doorbell for admittance to a haven of whites and creams, thick carpets and fireplaces. The seasonal fixed-price menu – complete with calorie counts – takes modern European influences to its French heart: chorizo tortellini is paired with pork consommé; glazed daikon and blackberry sit atop liver toast with mallard jus rôti. Don't miss sumptuously fragrant truffle risotto (in season) or the "decadent" Golden Louis XV chocolate praline (any time). Stellar service is the norm: "they never fail to make us feel important" testifies one regular, while others say "impeccable" staff are never overbearing. Touches such as complimentary home-baked brioche and an eight-course vegetable tasting menu are appreciated, as is the tempting wine list with its preference for south-west France.
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