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Hawksmoor’s younger, hipster cousin bears all the admirable hallmarks of its parent group: terrific British-reared steaks, punchy cocktails, “informative, relaxed service” – although it feels more like a cool, laid-back diner than a swanky metropolitan gents’ club. With outposts in Stoke Newington, Clerkenwell and Chiswick, this successful formula sees the kitchen mixin free-roaming bistro riffs with “great meaty stuff” – dishes of lime and chilli squid (highly recommended) or subtly sweet mama ghanouj (butternut squash replacing the more familiar aubergine) to fried chicken with habanero vinegar or show-stopping, perfectly charred Ibérico pork ‘pluma’ – cooked ‘medium’ and served with skin-on fries appear on the menu. “Perfect” Sunday roasts of Middle White porchetta or smoke-roast beef rib are justifiably popular, so settle in with the papers, a bottle of the guest red or a Smokestack Mary cocktail.
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