The Fountain at Fortnum & Mason

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Approached through Fortnum’s ground-floor Food Hall (or directly from Jermyn Street), The Fountain is an accessible all-day brasserie offering everything from breakfasts to afternoon tea and light suppers. British grub is the order of the day, from Welsh rarebit and omelette Arnold Bennett to beer-battered fish and chips, Gloucester Old Spot pork belly with apple and cider or corn-fed chicken breast with parsnip purée and tarragon sauce. To finish, go for cheese or something sweet – perhaps lavender crème brûlée or sticky toffee pud with salted caramel ice cream. Kids have their own menu, and Sunday jazz brunch is a big hit with the tourists. “Everything was way above average”, noted one reader – even if the minty white colours and tiled floor reminded him of a “large bathing hall”.

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