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Square Meal Review of Fish Central ?

A lunchtime blessing on a shopping precinct between Old Street and Angel, this spruce, upbeat seafood café was established as a family firm back in 1968 and is still run with a sense of pride. The dining room is kept neat and tidy, with black leather chairs, white tablecloths, vases of fresh flowers and fishing-trade photographs on the walls. There’s no messing about with the menu, either: you might kick off with fish soup, grilled sardines or mussels in a spicy sauce, before tackling battered cod, haddock or plaice, smoked haddock and oyster mushrooms in pastry or skate wing with beurre noisette. Meat eaters look to the char-grill and the wine list is stocked with plenty of sub-£20 offerings, while express lunches (£6.95 for two courses) compete with the adjoining chippie in the value stakes.


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