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After debuting with Dirty Bones Kensington and following up with Dirty Bones Soho, the group has spread further east. Housed in the Grade-II listed former home to Les Trois Garçons and with plenty of kitsch items (check out the giant crystal knobs on the staircase), this third branch is ridiculous in all the right ways. Food-wise, it sticks to the tried-and-tested formula of calorie-rich comfort food. We started with moreish, deep-fried mac ‘n’ cheese balls, which were far lighter than you might expect. For mains, we enjoyed the Yankee dog (sauerkraut, spring onion, French mustard and ketchup) with skinny fries. Vegetarians will appreciate meat-free versions of each dog, while fun desserts can be paired with a ‘Dirty Digestif’ – we went for Milk and Cookies, which was essentially gelato in a glass with a large chocolate ganache cookie. Staff are friendly, chatty and happy to give recommendations on a list of quirky cocktails. Dirty Bones doesn’t serve the most daring of menus, but it knows its niche and delivers it well.
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