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A luxe country house hotel owned by the landed gentry is the last place you’d expect to find a vibrant eatery filled with bold modern art, contemporary furniture and cool background sounds. But this brasserie/bar on the Duke of Devonshire’s 30,000-acre Yorkshire estate is a rollicking gem, especially at lunchtime when the whole place is a joyful pile-up of locals and tourists. Consistency is the order of the day as the kitchen sends out appealing modern dishes with just enough oomph to keep the customers interested. Tempting calls might include dressed crab with fennel coleslaw and gazpacho or roast rump of lamb with smoked aubergine purée and truffled cabbage. There are a few pubby ‘classics’ too, while cheeses come from ‘god’s own country’. As for pud – think warm Bakewell tart with burnt almond ice cream. Despite the scrum, staff seldom miss a trick.
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