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Square Meal Review of Delfino ?

Supplying Mayfair its pizza fix since 1957, Delfino still heaves with casual diners who squeeze into velvet banquettes to demolish crisp, wood-fired crusts & generous toppings. From 22 varieties, it’s easy to pick a favourite (margherita, American hot, fiorentina, quattro formaggi, they’re all here), although there are also a few more creative efforts such as prati e monti (a two-in-one combo involving goats’ cheese calzone & a conventional spinach & olive riff). But any similarity to popular chains ends there – staff are engaging & know the regulars, the interior is a wacky mix of red, yellow & turquoise, & the menu is bolstered by an innovative spread of pastas & grills including succulent lamb cutlets on pearl barley risotto. Proceedings can be rowdy, no doubt helped along by the eminently affordable wine list.

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