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Few places scream modern Soho like this crowd-pleasing den: "it's where I take everyone" explains one regular. The seemingly impenetrable facade lends an aura of "fabulous" exclusivity, while the plump easy chairs, suited-and-booted service and good British menu put comfort right at the heart of the clattering bar and low-ceilinged dining room. We'd suggest potted shrimps or buttery baked haddock soufflé to start, before sea bass with crayfish, glistening lamb chops with girolles and samphire or roast chicken with chipolatas. OK, it's hardly ambitious, but it's "not too safe" either – owners the Soho House Group know how to deliver consistent quality – and also how to charge handsomely for it. That said, the French-led wine list offers great choice and value, while moreish cocktails make it hard to resist a tipple on the pavement terrace.
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