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The London outpost of chef-to-the-stars Wolfgang Puck’s stateside steakhouse chain majors in expansive US hospitality. Hotel restaurants can sometimes lack fizz, but this long, clubby room with its sparkling feminine glitz and silver cloud lights creates a stellar ambience – “if it were a fashion essential it would definitely be a Louboutin stiletto”. The indulgence begins as soon as you are seated, with treats such as moreish Gruyère puffs, spicy tuna tartare and juicy beef sliders arriving in quick succession to cover your mirrored-glass tabletop. “Exceptional” signature salads speak of California’s bounty, while the meaty cuts themselves range from South Devon Angus and USDA Prime to the ultimate fatted calf, pure-bred Japanese Wagyu – cooked just as you like it with a top-dollar price tag. The wine list has a soft spot for classy Californian numbers, while staff are engaging and well-informed. “Very sexy, very expensive” is one reader’s accurate summary.
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