Savini at Criterion 22

See more

Squaremeal Review of Savini at Criterion ?

The definition of elegance, this Grade II-listed neo-Byzantine beauty dates back to 1874 and offers fine Italian dining, at prices as high as the gold mosaic ceiling. The similarly opulent Savini restaurant in Milan dates back to 1867, making this venture a seemingly wise move following the Criterion Restaurant’s descent into administration in summer 2015. The dramatic room features a bar and lounge area, secluded grey booths, chandeliers and glittering marble pillars, soundtracked on our visit by slightly kitsch, old-fashioned Italian tunes and not much else: the room was almost empty (Savini was infamously without a phone line for four months after opening), sapping the atmosphere in such lofty surrounds. A lavish menu redresses the balance however, with not one bum note: pungent yet light artichoke risotto is drizzled with truffle sauce, crowned by carefully cooked pigeon breast; dense pappardelle ribbons are laced with the tang and pepper of wild boar ragu; a slab of foie gras tastes fresher and more vibrant than its appearance suggests, lifted by strands of candied lemon. All-Italian service is as friendly, knowledgeable and classy as this style of dining demands, while classic cocktails and a superb collection of wines offer similarly comprehensive support. Eye-wateringly high prices may also explain a lack of custom for a restaurant at the centre of London’s tourist hub. If the word gets out and London’s fine diners once again fill this historic space, Savini will be a stellar special occasion destination.

...

Click here to read our diners’ reviews, or write your own

Got a blog?

Add your blog review of Savini at Criterion to Square Meal

Win fab prizes • Attract traffic to your blog • Add prestige to your blog Find out how

  1. Published :

    Eat With Steph :: Criterion | Eat With Steph

    Prestige and reputation sure does get repeatedly mentioned in my posts, but this one is a little different. It’s very hard to find a restaurant like the Criterion, a restaurant so quintessentially English and enriched with so much history there’s even a Wikipedia page for it.

    Breath-taking interior design by architect Thomas Verity in a Grade II* listed building at the heart of Central London makes the Criterion certainly one to visit. I held my mother’s birthday here last year and most recently re-visited the Criterion for Louise’s 21st, and also, for the new breakfast menu...
    More from Eat With Steph »

Essential Details for Savini at Criterion

Are you the restaurant owner? Click here for Links & Logos

Location of Savini at Criterion

  1. Enquiry Type

    Are you making a general enquiry or enquirying about private rooms?


    If you want expert advice on the best private rooms and their availability use our free Square Meal Concierge service and earn extra Square Meal Rewards points with every booking.

  2. Personal Details

    You are making an enquiry at Savini at Criterion .

    *Required field

  3. Enquiry Details

    You are making an enquiry at Savini at Criterion .

    *Required field

    By clicking 'SEND' you agree to the Square Meal User Agreement

    Cancel SEND Back
  4. Confirmation

    Thank you for your enquiry - Message sent to: Savini at Criterion

Diners at Savini at Criterion also recommend...

Savini at Criterion is included in the following Square Meal lists