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Affordable food and stylish surrounds are typical of the DoubleTree by Hilton Hotel chain, and this outpost gets an added boost from its imposing location: the new Piccadilly Place development,
just a stroll from Piccadilly Station. With its plate-glass outlook (and alfresco options), the City Café is also a popular dining destination, and the kitchen is surprisingly ambitious – witness
starters of smoked haddock and parmesan tart or quail with date purée, crisp pancetta and pickled walnut. Mains follow a similar path, offering meaty ballottine of oxtail with bone marrow, poached
tongue and Hermitage jus, as well as red-wine poached halibut with creamed celeriac, beetroot confit and parsley root. Earl Grey tea cream with Eccles cakes and milk foam rounds things off with a
regional twist. Set lunches and dinners are good value.
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