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This slick best-of-British restaurant from the ETM Group (which also owns the neighbouring Jugged Hare) is all about subtle luxury. The atmosphere is well-suited to after-work drinks or a romantic dinner, with a dining area (separate from the cocktail bar) kitted out in lime-green leather chairs, dark-wood floors and mirrored walls. A menu of seasonal, unpretentious food complements the relaxed setting. Devon crab might kick off proceedings, sweetened by pink grapefruit and further enhanced by avocado and pickled radishes. Main courses are hearty: our generous portion of Saddleback pork chop was served alongside pulled shoulder, pickled plums, radishes, spring onion, and a side of double-cooked chips. Knowledgeable staff are happy to chat you through the extensive wine list. Rounding off the evening was a bitter chocolate mousse, matched with caramel sauce and mint choc chip ice cream: a satisfying layering of textures. Afternoon tea and pre-theatre deals are also offered, making this hard-to-fault dining room popular with City types – although having a City salary might come in handy.
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