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Square Meal Review of Cattle Grid ?

A big, black bovine effigy looks suitably bullish outside this new Soho sibling of meat-mad Cattle Grid (branches in Balham & Windsor). Order & pay at the service counter from a brief menu that cuts straight to the chase with dry-aged steaks from Smithfield served with hand-cut Maris Piper chips & watercress (pick your own toppings, sides & sauces). Beef buffs might also fancy the prime burgers or steak sandwiches, & there are bowls of winter-warming beef & wild mushroom stew to keep out the urban chills. If pig is your passion, home in on the racks of ribs – perhaps dosed with lip-numbing piri-piri sauce. That’s all – unless you count a handful of salads & oddities ranging from soy & sesame tuna to Welsh rarebit with bacon.

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