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Square Meal Review of Callooh Callay ?

Like the potion Alice discovers in the Lewis Carroll novel that inspires its decor, Callooh Callay’s cocktails scream ‘drink me’. After stomach-lining bar bites of hot dogs, mini-burgers, wings and onion rings, followed by a ‘swizzle dee, swizzle dum’ (Tanqueray gin, pomegranate orange and lemon martini) in the nu-Edwardian front parlour, you’re ready for Wonderland – accessed Narnia-style, through a handsome walnut wardrobe. In the dark, groovy recesses, order curiouser and curiouser tipples such as Farmer Briar’s coq in cider or ‘bloody’ Janet Street-Porter – a crazy old fashioned involving Hibiki Japanese whisky, Cherry Heering, porter reduction and blood-orange juice. Further pleasures lurk upstairs in the dinky Jubjub lounge, a simpatico squeeze that changes its look depending on the drinks being promoted – perhaps the garish, acid-bright tones of a Mexican wrestler’s dressing room to go with Tequila cocktails.

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