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Seasoned restaurateurs Jamie Barber & David Ponte (Hush, Momo et al) have teamed up for this relaxed riff on the in-vogue Brazilian barbecue theme. Rio-born Ponte knows all about his homeland’s
‘churrascaria’ traditions, & the new venture serves gutsy morsels in a hand-made, streetwise setting of plank floors, poster-lined walls & banquettes upholstered with recycled jeans from
São Paulo favelas. ‘Cabanistas’ circulate through the room, flaunting colour-coded skewers loaded with everything from marinated chicken thighs or chimichurri rump steak to giant portobello
mushrooms with haloumi. Order pao de queijo (cheese dough balls), palm heart ‘pastels’ or chicken empadas on the side, & finish with something from the bespoke frozen yoghurt bar. ‘Lovely
people, & great with kids’, commented one South American mum.
Latin America is always in the forefront of imagination when thinking of beaches, Miss Universe finalists and drug cartels, but it is perhaps not so much when talking about food. Which I always find odd as they actually have a very diverse and delicious range of cuisines. Cabana was my first Brazilian restaurant tried and tested in London.
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