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Gordon Ramsay's all-day City behemoth is an enjoyably theatrical mix, with buttoned leather and anglepoise lighting in shades of groovy 70s orange set against black-and-white chequerboard tiles and sweatshop-distressed wood and metal. All those hard surfaces create a full-throated exuberance at peak times. The scale is industrial, the inspiration is NYC and it mostly works – especially at night, when the tall illuminated columns cast a comforting yellow glow. The kitchen is versatile, dishing up light, citrusy carpaccio of stone bass, Josper-grilled pheasant, dry-aged rare-breed steaks and achingly virtuous superfood salads of alfalfa, edamame and quinoa with equal facility. "Not poncey, just good hearty food" says one reader. Service is cheery, chatty and "top notch", while the wine list offers plenty of choice by the glass or carafe.
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