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With its daily specials written on rolls of brown paper, a bar adorned with homemade preserves, and pegs on the walls for hanging your coat – Bistro Union evokes the make-do-and-mend Britain of yore. Much of the menu produced by Adam Byatt’s team harks back to a time when food was primarily for comfort, reassurance and high-calorie fuel: there’s a breakfast fry-up, fish pie and toad in the hole for lunch, and rhubarb fool for pudding. Nevertheless, you’ll also find more interesting dishes that have left the nursery (and school dinners) behind. Try the grilled squid with parsley salad, served with a punch-packing aïoli; and finish off with a blackcurrant and almond tart (in essence, a very fine version of a Bakewell). Drinks include a couple of British sparklers, craft beers and ciders, but fear not: the wine list makes it easy to escape Blighty should you wish.
Having enjoyed the delights of french cuisine at La Bonne Heure on Friday evening, my next stop along Abbeville Road was Sunday brunch at Bistro Union. With a menu focusing on seasonal British food, Bistro Union was created by Adam Byatt and the team behind The Trinity, another Clapham based restaurant. The Bistro has a bright interior, laid back atmosphere and was buzzing with locals.Myself and three friends arrived at our booked table for 11am and shortly after ordered teas, coffees and fresh juice. The presentation of each beverage was very retro.
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