Bincho Yakitori EC1

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Having conquered Soho, Bincho has moved east for its second opening – a sleek, glossy, contemporary offshoot on the site of the Ambassador. Although it’s less of a down-home izakaya than the original, it has similar attributes and the same sense of fun – seats at the counter provide a ringside view of the action, with a bar and alfresco seating added to the mix. Flash-grilled yakitori skewers are the mainstays, and there are always plenty of takers for chicken wings, breast, liver and gizzard (‘other parts on request’), plus curiosities such as quails’ eggs with pancetta or duck breast with wasabi and spring onion. Prices are rock bottom, but you can order at will from a free-ranging menu that also includes larger yakimono and kushiyaki grills, plus salads and assorted sides. Drink Asahi beer, chilled saké or one of the Bincho cocktail hits.

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