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There’s no doubt that Beauberry House, with its Georgian good looks & white stucco exterior, makes a fine setting for a wedding or period costume drama, but when it comes to dining, things get rather confused. There’s little to suggest the restaurant, now known as Belair House, exists: no sign greets you from the road & the website rarely mentions the place by name. White leather banquettes & black glass vases give the high-ceilinged dining room a modern, monochrome colour scheme that’s out of step with the classical architecture. A broadly French menu (chicken-liver parfait, grilled veal fillet) makes occasional forays into Japanese cuisine with dishes such as crispy squid & Alaskan black cod, but readers report muted flavour & small portions.
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