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The vintage poster adorning the back wall of this latest addition to Kentish Town’s burgeoning food scene says it all. ‘Let them eat steak’, it declares – and eat it they do, in droves, judging by the packed house on a rainy Tuesday night. The concept is simple: inexpensive steak and sides; a loosely French-themed menu centred around cheaper but flavourful cuts; and a focus on beer, complete with pairing suggestions. Smoked pig’s cheek on toast with grated apple and pickled onions is a robust bar snack, well-matched with the house cocktail – a Picon Bière (a bitter orange syrup liqueur mixed with beer). The hanger steak is stupidly good value at £10: rich, smoky almost game-like meat that’s perfect dipped in the truffle béarnaise. The beef cheek and beer cheese French dip – complete with cow-shaped gravy jug – is also sublime, elevating a humble cut to something nearing greatness. A prime choice.
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