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It's testament to the success of Sam and Eddie Hart's Michelin-starred Soho original that the duo have opened another two no-bookings Barrafinas within walking distance of each other in Covent Garden (try the Drury Lane branch if Adelaide Street is packed). But what keeps punters coming back for more? "Outstanding" tapas, prepared before your eyes at a smart, marble-topped counter, using impeccably sourced Iberian ingredients pretty much sums it up. Although Barrafina regulars will spot a few staples (pan con tomate, Padrón peppers and "deliciously gooey" tortilla), each outlet has its own menu, and highlights here include pintxos morunos (moist skewers of grilled pork) cracking crab croquetas, and frit mallorquin (a rich Mallorcan speciality comprising lamb's sweetbreads fried with caramelised aubergine, fennel and peppers). There's a standout Spanish wine list too, so we can only agree with the reader who concludes that "the Barrafina boys have got this nailed".
The Hart Brothers’ wine list is suitably compact and no-nonsense. A dozen whites, 12 reds, a rosé, three cavas and six sherries is your lot. But nearly all the wines are available by the glass, and for such a short list there’s an impressive mix of ‘safe’ and ‘cutting-edge Spanish’, particularly in the whites. Clear, accurate, supremely easy to navigate and spot-on for its purpose.
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