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Square Meal Review of Balfour ?

This seriously old-school trattoria appears to be in “rude health” judging by the crowds filling the pavement tables on fine days. Inside, Balfour is a lesson in simplicity, with plain furnishings, bare wooden tables, pretty tiled walls and menu that plays with a straight bat. Kick off with deep-fried Mozzarella or Tuscan salt pork and bean soup, ahead of spinach and Ricotta ravioli, a pizza or one of the blackboard specials – perhaps slow-cooked lamb shank with porcini and celeriac mash. To finish, it has to be tiramisu or crème brûlée. As a neighbourhood eatery dedicated to feeding its people, Balfour isn’t too worried about authenticity – hence the presence of angels on horseback, confit duck and even fish and chips on the menu, plus eggs Benedict and gingerbread toast for brunch. Sweet-natured staff and bargain lunch dishes are a bonus.

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