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TV chef, restaurateur and all-round Indian ambassador Cyrus Todiwala OBE is known for his Parsee spin on regional cooking (particularly at Café Spice Namasté), but his latest venture finds him going global as he explores the connections between Portuguese, Brazilian and Asian
cuisine. Located near the Old Vic and part of the Hampton by Hilton London Waterloo development, Assado offers an all-day roster of dishes with different accents but an obvious culinary
affiliation. From marinated olives steeped with tangy lime to anchovy fillets anointed with crushed chilli flakes, the flavours here are unrepentantly big and bold. Goan-style pulled pork assado
(the Portuguese word for roast) is a signature dish; a spicy, slow-cooked east-west riff in a bun, and also available to take away of a lunchtime. Meanwhile, a pork vindaloo is brightly spiced with
pickle-notes, and a slow-cooked lamb ‘xacutti’ gains an impressive depth of flavour from 21 different spices. Bombay burgers and savoury filled breads (pao) also feature, while an international
wine list focuses especially on some less usual Portuguese offerings. A deli corner sells spices and pastes from Todiwala’s own range.
Cyrus Todiwala is one of my favourite chefs in London. Not only does he talk about the food from his Parsee heritage with passion, he’s also a really charming person to meet.So when I found out that he was Chef Patron of Assado – the restaurant at the Hampton by Hilton Waterloo hotel, I was eager to try the menu.I’d not forgotten the delicious curries at Mr Todiwala’s Kitchen – his signature restaurant at Heathrow Airport Terminal 5 – when I first met him many years ago. But when I chatted to him at the Hampton by Hilton hotel’s first anniversary celebrations this year, he described the food at...
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The restaurant, located a short walk from Waterloo station, just past the Old Vic Theatre, is pretty big and glass fronted. It’s got a bit more of a cafe vibe than a restaurant, with slices of freshly baked cake available to buy at the counter. When we arrived at 7pm, it was quite empty but it picked up as the night went on.We tucked into some bread and olives and prawn rissoles to start and then we ordered curries for mains. The boys went for the supposedly spiciest one on the menu (the lamb xacutti, which apparently includes 21 ingredients, although the waitress didn’t seem to be able to tell us what was...
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