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Square Meal Review of Acciuga ?

Chef Guglielmo Arnulfo’s north Italian-inspired restaurant tries hard to be more than your average neighbourhood trattoria. Neon-bright paintings and a Bowie-inspired soundtrack add plenty of character, while “chic” service and amuse-bouches make it feel a bit special. The kitchen works best with “‘authentic, regional” dishes from Arnulfo’s native province of Liguria, and the chef’s mastery of pasta is inspired – think al dente chicken and butternut squash ravioli on a bed of soft leeks or classic Ligurian trofie al pesto. However, when the kitchen turns its hand to modish gastronomy, things can start to unravel – the likes of prawn carpaccio on a red-hot dinner plate with an octopus lolly strike us as too clever by half. Stick to classic Italian with a plate of pasta with an Aperol Spritz and you’re on safe ground in this “absolutely lovely” place.

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  1. Published : Wednesday, 10 July 2013

    The Hedonist :: Acciuga – Review

    Guglielmo Arnulfo is a 24 years old Italian chef from Genoa with an intruiging backstory having trained as a lawyer and then playing international rugby before following his heart to spend the next few years learning how to become a chef in his native Liguria. He has now opened Acciuga, a restaurant showcasing the food of his homeland in that gastronomically underserved part of Kensington...
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  1. When Acciuga invited me to try their 5 course taster menu, I initially wondered if it was going to be a total carb fest. I need not have worried, their Italian dishes are wonderfully light. Accigua is a lovely restaurant on Kensington High Street, serving traditional dishes from Liguria with a creative twist. The chef is Guglielmo Arnulfo – at only 25, he has worked with Michelin starred chefs Edoardo Ferrera and Claudio Pasquarelli. We were warmly greeted by Guglielmo’s father and taken to our comfy table. The dining room is beautifully decorated with Italian artworks...
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  1. When I finally arrived I was told to leave my stuff on any empty chair I could find and make my way into the basement. There I found a glut of food bloggers (the obvious collective noun) scoffing cheesy bread and cocktails. Cheesy bread isn’t the technical term, that would be frisciou, fried grissini, and focaccia ligure, but all you need know for now is that they were delicious and filling and really hit the spot. Cheese and bread is always right...
    More from The Mayfairy »

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