A Little of What You Fancy

a little of what you fancy
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Square Meal Review of A Little of What You Fancy ?

Those who knew the Kingsland Road of old will have a hoot when they read the menu here. Heritage tomatoes, English asparagus with 24-month Parmesan, shakshuka, Stoke Newington-smoked salmon… what has happened to Dalston? It’s found itself a decent restaurant, that’s what. Chef & owner Elaine Chalmers has cooked at Dalston Superstore & Shoreditch Electricity Showrooms, so knows how hipsters eat, but she’s also a true foodie who ‘cooks what she likes, using ingredients she’s proud of’. The shabby chic ‘small- scale operation’ starts the day with breakfast sarnies & eggs various ways, before bringing on the sandwiches, cakes & salads, followed by dinner service when chicken liver parfait, pan-fried squid & fennel salad, & Kitty Travers’ gorgeous ice creams hold sway. Staff ‘use the restaurant as a catwalk’, but are ‘very friendly’. To drink, there’s Kernel Brewery beer & a brief list of biodynamic & organic wines.

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