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Totally immune to the vagaries of fortune and fashion, this upper-crust blue blood has been nourishing Mayfair’s top brass since George II was on the throne. Oysters and shellfish remain the main
stock in trade, as does deferential service that is a model of studied grace and old-school standards (no devices, please). Jackets, ties and deep pockets are required if you are to get the most
from the menu: apart from the aforementioned bivalves, there is briny pleasure to be had from lobster cocktail, grilled turbot, sole bonne femme and fancy ideas such as wild sea bass with confit
fennel and citrus vinaigrette. If red blood is your idea of heaven, look to the carving trolley for roast joints or wait until roast grouse or mallard have their seasonal moments. It is all very
old school, dutiful and reverentially hushed.
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