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Fashion may rather have passed this homely restaurant by, but its army of loyal followers is no doubt grateful that an easygoing atmosphere and unstuffy, generous cooking are still at the heart of
the operation. Decoration and table settings are of the traditional variety, as too are dishes such as confit duck and apricot terrine, and fillet of Lancashire beef with roasted root vegetables,
shallots, hot-pot potatoes and red wine jus, which are commendable for their satisfying honesty and complete lack of pretension.
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