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Only diehard bankers who used The Stafford’s antiquated dining room for private meetings could bemoan its transformation into The Lyttelton’s angelic homage to Georgian grandeur. The food has also
been yanked out of the dark ages – thanks to chef Carlos Martinez. His monkfish with curried lentils and Brixham crab is a revelation, as is the roasted West Country venison loin with spinach
purée, roast salsify terrine, girolles, pistachios and hazelnut crumble. Service is friendly if reticent.
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