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The heartland of London’s electronically driven financial world is perhaps the last place you’d expect to find a restaurant/bar celebrating the Industrial Revolution. But this subterranean venue in
Leadenhall Market goes through the motions: visitors are invited to ‘clock in’ on arrival, before heading down to the generously spaced dining room, with its smart leather seating, wooden tables
and Victorian bric-a-brac. It all feels rather contrived, from the mannered menu descriptions (‘before the long-case strikes twelve’ means ‘breakfast’) to the clunky machine noise piped into the
toilets, but – thankfully – the food saves the day. Starters might include well-judged grilled wood pigeon with fig tart, while mains could see a perfectly timed ‘butler’s’ steak from Donald
Russell or meltingly tender shoulder of lamb cooked for 12 hours. Restorative bar snacks and bespoke cocktails will also please City workers after their shift.
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