The Carriage Bar at the Grain Store

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Extra-curricular interest at chef Bruno Loubet’s inspired warehouse conversion includes drinks at its destination Carriage Bar, where the 10-strong list has been designed by Tony Conigliaro – hailed as the Einstein of the cocktail world for his scientific approach to this specialist subject. To start, there’s a trio of tasty leftfield martinis prepped by alumni who seem to have been recruited for their looks as well as their bartending skills. Other sips raise questions: does Death in Venice (Campari, grapefruit bitters and an orange twist) capture the essence of Thomas Mann’s novella? Is a pumpkin and caramelised maple syrup bellini like liquid gold sculpted by Benvenuto Cellini? Are Tony’s ‘doctored’ Greco-Roman wines divine ambrosia or neoclassical nonsense? Either way, the sum of £7.50 buys an education in a glass to go with snacks such as veggie merguez sausages, falafels or jalapeño hot dogs.

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