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The Britannia, once Kensington’s local brewery, nowadays forms part of the Young’s portfolio, so fans of its Special London Ale, Waggledance or Double Chocolate Stout will have reason to cheer. We
applaud the smart refit: working fires with art nouveau surrounds, deep-fill leather upholstery and the sophisticated sage-&-cumin interior reflect Britannia’s posh postcode. Wines, such as a
Matua Valley Riesling (£19.95) from New Zealand, are well chosen, with a dozen or so offered by the glass. Charming staff encouraged us to stay for dinner in a softly lit, twinkling dining room. An
ambitious menu succeeds in partsXXX but might benefit from focussing on what the kitchen does best: steak & kidney suet pudding; veal & foie gras burger or Gloucester Old Spot pork with
cider & quince sauce & Spring veg EXPANDXX. Any lapses were mitigated by good-value pub prices. For those who imagine spreadsheet-driven brewery makeovers are all bad, Britannia waives the
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