The Black Rat

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Square Meal Review of The Black Rat ?

The Black Rat is a white-painted boozer-cum-restaurant that has benefited from sympathetic re-modelling. Old beams & timbers, dark floorboards, exposed brickwork & a big inglenook are reminders of the past & part of its unpretentious charm, while a Michelin star gives the seal of approval to the food. Menus aren’t short on appeal or imagination & the modern British repertoire is built around locally sourced, seasonal produce: expect generosity & punchy flavours in dishes such as Longhorn beef faggot served with shallot glaze, split pea mousse, bone marrow & pea shoots or slow-cooked, five-year-old Blackface mutton breast with pickled turnip, black cabbage, haggis & beech leaf jus. Good desserts too, if poached Yorkshire rhubarb with hibiscus, vanilla cream & a pistachio macaroon is anything to go by.

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  1. Published : Monday, 8 April 2013

    Samphire and Salsify :: The Black Rat

    Having been a pub in a former life, the dining room is still very much in that fashion. It’s a quirky place too – like an eccentric antique shop which makes it a rather pleasant place to sit as there’s plenty to look at...
    More from Samphire and Salsify »

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