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Square Meal Review of The Atlas ?

Incongruously positioned beside a car park & a storage unit, this charmingly historic pub is an oasis in the wastelands south of the Earls Court exhibition centres. Wood panelling, a stripped-back floor, refectory tables & exposed fireplaces create a cosy set-up – so relax at the bar with a pint of real ale or choose from a menu that mixes hearty British themes with some Italian influences to telling effect. Dishes such as roast wild pigeon with Jerusalem artichoke gratin & parsley fritters or tagliatelle with rabbit ragù, porcini & sage are imaginative, capably cooked & refreshingly good value. The Atlas takes wine seriously, too, with detailed descriptions on the list & most bottles hovering around the £20 mark. Staff are sociable & well-drilled & there’s a beer garden for fine-weather boozing.

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