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The dark wood floors & padded red-leather seats may have more in common with an American diner than the fast-food joints of Mexico & southern California but the tostados, tacos &
quesadillas at Taqueria are the real McCoy. Corn tortillas are made on the premises & stuffed with the likes of shredded, slow-cooked pork or strips of char-grilled skirt steak. The kitchen’s
sourcing credentials are admirable: eggs, chicken & pork are free-range; fish comes from sustainable sources; & milk is organic. True to form, the drinks list features a line-up of imported
beers as well as a huge selection of Tequilas – drunk neat or in ‘amazing margaritas’. Otherwise, the wonderfully cooling horchata (a rice drink with a hint of almond & cinnamon) is a perfect,
soothing foil to the mouth-tingling fare.
Taqueria is a frills-free, wine-in-cups, plates-on-request kind of a place. Formica tables quiver suggestively, and white walls are smattered with a collection of posters. Glowering out of one such is the generously moustachioed Zapata, leading his second revolution – the liberation of Me-hi-can food of course. It is no mean feat to lift this underdog of a cuisine from its sullied position in the tough London food ranks, but Taqueria manages it whilst being ridiculously light on the wallet...
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