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Square Meal Review of Summer Isles ?

Strung out dramatically on the far north-west coast of Scotland, this much-loved Highland institution could hardly be more romantically escapist. After four decades at the helm, the Irvine family sold their beloved hotel in 2008, & the handover appears to have been seamless. Charm, warmth & comfort still abound. Chef Chris Firth-Bernard remains at the stoves, & he delivers five-course evening meals as well as simpler dishes for the back bar. Dinner is a finely tuned operation that begins with drinks & canapes in the lounge, before guests process to the candlelit dining room. An autumn feast brought a filo parcel of monkfish followed by a light cheese souffle, then Achiltibuie lobster in butter sauce. For dessert, choose from an old-style trolley laden with hazelnut log, chocolate cheesecake, raspberry souffle & the like. A fine selection of cheeses comes next, with coffee & tablet (sugary Scottish sweet) in the lounge completing a full-blown evening.


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