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‘Brisk’ describes the Sunday flower-market trade at this Columbia Road hybrid – part 1960s London caff, part backstreet Pisa pizzeria. Looking like refugees from Glastonbury, young punters picnic
cross-legged on the pavement, armed with boxed-up, thin-crust pizzas and giant calzones (sold together with a pint of Stella for £5.95 from 4-7pm, Monday to Thursday). Indoors, jammed tables
accommodate young families and chums also loading up on pasta plates and mains such as Basque-style cod. Not all dishes acquit themselves well: a thin yellow vegetable broth of indeterminable
flavour, for example. A circular bar serves sea breeze, Pimm’s and margarita (£4.25), draught Sagres, Budvar, Leffe and Peroni, Cava and affordable vino (house red is a snip at £2.95). Nobody
stands on ceremony, and European staff are stoically upbeat – if distracted – under pressure.
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