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It’s either the cutting-edge of big-city cool or as mad as a box of frogs – depending on your point of view. The ground-floor Gallery at Sketch’s opulent pleasure palace was designed by Turner
Prize-winning Martin Creed (famous for ‘the light going on and off in an empty room’). Thankfully, the lights stay on here to reveal bold colours and a ‘funky’ zig-zag floor, with every piece of
furniture and cutlery deliberately different (so prepare for discomfort and some ‘cheap and nasty’ eating utensils). By contrast, the food – devised by French super-chef Pierre Gagnaire – isn’t as
crazy as you might expect, although it has its moments: think twice-baked haddock soufflé, beef and foie-gras burger or saffron risotto with Swiss chard alongside beetroot ‘declension’ (white jelly
and red syrup with tamarillo sorbet and grated horseradish). Service is all ‘politeness and knowing smiles’.
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