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You have to admire this huge South African-themed pile for its pluck. To the sound of drumbeats, we navigate our way to the lounge bar at this gastroplex, which must be seen to be believed (once
will do). With wall-to-wall tribal carvings, ethnic prints and images of statuesque warriors à go-go, this overwrought subterranean kingdom feels more Sun City than Camden. For £9.50, you can
sample the Shaka shakers’ finest efforts. The pick of the ‘Zulu cocktails’ are angel face (African Mishale brandy, fig, lemon and apple juice), Ketel dawa from Nairobi, and a vodka and kumquat
thirst-quencher called sufrica. Ten wines by the glass include Kloovenburg Merlot at £7.50. In similarly ‘classy’ bars in Cape Town, £10 will get you three Bellinis. What’s Zulu for ‘taxi to
Tony Safqui has stuck with this busy South African eatery’s national theme and put together a list made up (apart from Champagne) entirely of South African wines, all bound in a fake crocodile-skin folder. It’s easy to follow, looks great, the pricing is fair, and just about all the country’s good producers are included.
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