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Square Meal Review of Shaka Zulu ?

You have to admire this huge South African-themed pile for its pluck. To the sound of drumbeats, we navigate our way to the lounge bar at this gastroplex, which must be seen to be believed (once will do). With wall-to-wall tribal carvings, ethnic prints and images of statuesque warriors à go-go, this overwrought subterranean kingdom feels more Sun City than Camden. For £9.50, you can sample the Shaka shakers’ finest efforts. The pick of the ‘Zulu cocktails’ are angel face (African Mishale brandy, fig, lemon and apple juice), Ketel dawa from Nairobi, and a vodka and kumquat thirst-quencher called sufrica. Ten wines by the glass include Kloovenburg Merlot at £7.50. In similarly ‘classy’ bars in Cape Town, £10 will get you three Bellinis. What’s Zulu for ‘taxi to Heathrow’?

Wine List Of The Year

Tony Safqui has stuck with this busy South African eatery’s national theme and put together a list made up (apart from Champagne) entirely of South African wines, all bound in a fake crocodile-skin folder. It’s easy to follow, looks great, the pricing is fair, and just about all the country’s good producers are included.

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