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There’s something undeniably Italian about Sardo, from its wholehearted intention to satiate diners with simply-cooked, rustic food to its homely and convivial atmosphere – although the owners are
also proud of their regional Sardinian roots. According to one reader, this is a gastronomic playground for ‘the more serious eater’, with a menu that looks seawards for much of its bounty. Get a
salty tang from tuna carpaccio with lemon dressing or spaghetti dressed with a sauce made from dried mullet roe, before sampling grilled swordfish with asparagus and wild rocket. Otherwise, stay on
terra firma for calf’s liver in a sauce of balsamic vinegar or tortelli stuffed with pumpkin and ricotta, before rounding off with zesty lemon cream and caramelised orange. ‘Personal service’ is
exactly what is required, and the fascinating wine list invites exploration – make sure you sample the restaurant’s full-bodied Nepente.
There’s a small clutch of Italian restaurants on the western side of Tottenham Court Road in Fitzrovia, but most are either yawn-inducing chains or dreary places serving up massive menus of slop. One of the very few exceptions is Sardo, a long-standing restaurant specialising in dishes from Sardinia. Not to be confused with its cafe spin-off next door, Sardo Cucina, Sardo is comfortable and just about quiet enough for a relaxed business lunch or a hazy meal with friends...
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