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Square Meal Review of Salloos ?

Set up by Muhammed Salahuddin (aka ‘Salloo’) in 1976, this first-floor restaurant in a Belgravia mews is a bastion of refined Pakistani cooking – thanks in part to its head chef, who has been at his post since day one. The menu rarely changes, but the kitchen has honed its skills over the years and continues to deliver smart dishes based on recipes from the home country. Order in advance if you fancy sharing the spoils from a slow-roasted leg of lamb (raan masala), or look for signature plates of chicken kofte, stir-fried kidneys and haleem akbari (shredded lamb with wheatgerm and lentils). Salloos is also famed for its exemplary tandooris – especially the ever-popular marinated lamb chops. The glamorous dining room is a sultry mix of decorative silks built into wood panels, contemporary crystal chandeliers and lattice screens, while two bars keep everyone suitably lubricated.

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