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Run as a not-for-profit cooperative (with the owners involved in a sustainable ‘permaculture’ project just outside the city), this quirky bistro ticks lots of boxes and there’s something pretty
cool about the place – from its stellar eco-credentials and obscure name (lifted from Edward Lear’s The Owl and the Pussycat) to its bistro-style chalkboard menu of thoughtfully sourced
Brit-accented food, with just two options for each course. The cellar dining room feels like a pop-up restaurant with its daily repertoire involving hand-made cordials, chutneys, liqueurs, breads,
yoghurt, cured meats and fish. To start, try rainbow trout gravadlax with pickled beetroot and horseradish or chicken ballottine studded with prunes and pistachios, ahead of – say – pork loin
stuffed with apricot and sage, accompanied by celeriac purée and spring greens. In all, this is assured, homely cooking at wallet-friendly prices.
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