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Standards may have dipped briefly following chef Gauthier’s departure, but the brains behind Roussillon hope to breath fresh life into their restaurant with the appointment of Shane Hughes
(formerly at Michelin-starred Ynyshir Hall): a very talented chef whose attention-grabbing cuisine should put Roussillon right back on track. A starter of fried pig’s head with scallops &
lentils is both classy & comforting, while a standout dish of spiced beef-shin ravioli, lobster, parsnip cream & truffle emulsion is pure heaven, bolstered by exquisite produce picked up
from Hughes’ time in Wales. For dessert, both the lemon tart & a vanilla soufflé with passion fruit sauce are faultless. There’s been no change elsewhere: front-of-house remains a well-oiled
operation, while the light, formal interiors still mix front-room charm with fine-dining elegance.
WINE LIST: An interesting & very eclectic list that focuses on south-west France, with an excellent selection that shows that the region is not just capable of easy-drinking curiosities.
There are also cameo appearances from Turkey, Lebanon & even a rather conspicuous spotlight on Italian gran fromaggio Angelo Antinori. BEST BUY WHITE 2009 Jean-Bernard Larrieu, Jurançon
Sec Clos Lapeyre, South-West France, France, £34. BEST BUY RED 2008 Domaine Olivier Pithon, Laïs, Côtes du Roussillon, France £63.
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